Close Haul Tips

In my previous post I gave some hints about how best to using the cunningham to adjust tension in the luff to help point the boat - especially in light winds; it's also critical to beating the Laser sailors. On the Topper Xenon this is controlled by the helmsman so naturally I would take most interest in it.

Just to complicate things there is another rope called the outhaul and this is controlled by the crew as it is cleated off under the boom by the mast. Todate when sailing we have not touched it - just made sure it was tight - well it is my first year learning to sail after all. Guidance from Topper is as follows.....

When sailing upwind you will nearly always have the outhaul pulled quite tight but you may wish to loosen it for the downwind legs. You can pre-set the "off" position by tying a large knot (or use a ball) about an inch from the cleat when the foot is pulled tight. This means you simply have to uncleat at the windward mark and it will be in about the right place for downwind sailing. Remember to pull it back on before rounding the leeward mark!

 So next time we go out I will put 2 knots in it and report back how it works.

Sailing with a Cunningham

In an earlier post I highlighted that the Topper Xenon has a cunningham in oppose to a downhaul. This is not just another rope and is extremely useful when racing and of course sailing in general.  If you have a Xenon you have got to learn how to use it. In our last race the Barman and I noticed a significant improvement.

The cunningham adjusts the tension in the luff extremely quickly and easily. By hauling it in or easing the line, the tension in the luff can be changed, thereby shifting the point of maximum draft forward or aft so as to optimize the sail shape.

I have found the greatest impact is when you are trying to point upwind on a close haul. If the cunningham tension is on, you don't point very high.

This bit from the Xenon manual starts to now make a bit more sense....

For a medium wind (crew sitting out hard, but able to sheet the mainsail to the centreline) you should be able to use maximum power. Use very little or no cunningham. The outhaul should be set so that there is about a 3in (7-8cm) gap between mainsail foot and boom at the point of maximum chord. Try to keep the boom on the centreline, provided that the boat remains flat.


The jib can be eased about 1-2in (5-10cm) from maximum tightness for optimum performance. As the wind increases, reduce the power in the mainsail by pulling down on the cunningham progressively until the boat feels comfortable and balanced again. If you have tell tales on the leech, use enough gnav to keep them flying.

For very windy conditions flatten the main by tightening the outhaul, tensioning the cunningham further (with a fully-battened sail this has the effect of flattening the sail without pulling the fullness forward and can therefore be used much more than with a conventional mainsail). Sit out hard and sail free.

In light airs, use little or no gnav to allow the leech to open.

Topper Xenon's Cunningham not Downhaul

Sailing parlance can be very confusing at times as the same thing onboard can be called a number of different names (e.g. a kicker, boom vang, gnav, thingme giggy etc). When learning to sail this doesn't help your speedy understanding of the technicalities of sail setting. Another example is the downhaul; on the Topper Xenon which is called a cunningham!

The cunningham differs from a typical downhaul in the way that it attaches to the sail. The system usually consists of a line which is secured at one end to the mast or boom below the foot of the mainsail. It is then passed through a cringle in the luff of the sail near the foot, but above the tack, and then led down on the other side to a fitting on the mast or boom or on deck.

It is named after its inventor, Briggs Swift Cunningham II, a victorious America Cup skipper, who was a yacht builder and sailor, as well as being a racecar enthusiast, driver, team owner, and racecar owner and builder. The yacht, Columbia, was led to victory by Cunningham in the America Cup competition of 1958. Briggs was inducted into the America Cup Hall of Fame in 1993. He is also in the international and American motorsports halls of fame and when innovating devices for yachting, called on the specialized talents of automobile racing friends to solve problems such as metal stress and selection.

There you go!

How to sail the Topper Xenon

Here is some useful information for me and my crew to remember when sailing the Zambezi Shark (aka Topper Xenon) - particularly the Barman, as we were definitely rusty during Friday evening's pursuit race er....or was it just me??

The aim this course is of course to beat those pesky Lasers. BTW everything below comes from the Topper manual so must be true..

Upwind
For a medium wind (crew sitting out hard, but able to sheet the mainsail to the centreline) you should be able to use maximum power. Use very little or no cunningham. The outhaul should be set so that there is about a 3in (7-8cm) gap between mainsail foot and boom at the point of maximum chord. Try to keep the boom on the centreline, provided that the boat remains flat.

The jib can be eased about 1-2in (5-10cm) from maximum tightness for optimum performance. As the wind increases, reduce the power in the mainsail by pulling down on the cunningham progressively until the boat feels comfortable and balanced again. If you have tell tales on the leech, use enough gnav to keep them flying.

For very windy conditions flatten the main by tightening the outhaul, tensioning the cunningham further (with a fully-battened sail this has the effect of flattening the sail without pulling the fullness forward and can therefore be used much more than with a conventional mainsail). Sit out hard and sail free.

In light airs, use little or no gnav to allow the leech to open.

Tacking
Be aware that with a fully-battened sail the power comes on very fast after the tack. Do not over steer with the rudder as you will find yourself on a reach. Do not sheet in hard immediately, with either main or jib, until the boat has picked up speed after the tack. Whenever the boat slows down it pays to ease sheets, bear off a couple of degrees and then oint up again once the boat has regained speed. In light winds, when about to tack, make sure that there is some gnav tension, as this will help the battens to flick across. Ease the sheet a few inches before tacking. A sharp pull when you reach the new tack will also help the battens across.

Downwind
With an asymmetric Spinnaker, large distances can be gained (and lost!) very quickly. It is essential to keep the boat traveling at the optimum speed and direction towards the next mark. This direction will vary according to the wind strength. In light airs, at displacement speeds, where sailing higher will not result in a great increase in speed, it pays to sail low towards the mark. In marginal planing conditions, sailing higher will allow the boat to plane and the consequent increase in speed help to offset the extra distance traveled. The boat can be sailed progressively lower as the wind strength increases.

Just when to sail high or low and at what precise angles will come only with experience, so keep practicing. The crew can have a better idea of the correct angle to sail by feeling the power in the spinnaker sheet. Allow the crew to call the pressure. Sail as low as possible, keeping the pressure on, unless there are overriding tactical considerations.

Gybing
An asymmetric Spinnaker is far easier to gybe than a conventional spinnaker and takes no longer than tacking. Ideally you should always gybe when the boat is traveling at maximum speed as there is less pressure on the sails. It therefore pays to gybe 'reachto- run'.

If you try to slow down and gybe 'run-to-run' the spinnaker pulls the top of the mast forward, making the boat unstable and less controllable. The additional air pressure will make the mainsail harder to pull across. So be positive and gybe smoothly and at speed.

In strong winds you will probably have borne off so that, although the apparent wind still shows a broad reach, you are in fact running directly before the true wind. If you then try to gybe through your normal angle you will gybe on to a reach and be overpowered! So in strong conditions remember to gybe through a smaller angle. As with tacking, apply some gnav tension and Cunningham when gybing in light airs to help the battens flick across.

Parts of a Sail

Since I am blogging about sails and trying to sound knowledgeable about how I know what each bit is called, here is the secret - a picture taken from Wikipedia with luff, leech, roach, battens, head, clew foot and tack all identified. It was a mystery to me where all these bits were until I had to start taking more notice of what the sail is meant to be doing....

Where should the Telltails go?

It is some time since I completed my RYA 1 & 2 dinghy sailing course. It is on these courses that you learn and prompty forget what things like the telltales should be doing to get you going as fast as possible. To prove my point, when last out on the River Colne, just short of Bateman Tower, even the Bar Man, my experienced crew could not remember.

After a few months of sailing I have now mastered the ability to look up at my sails and make a vague judgement as to their worth. Having spotted the telltales I felt it was the next thing to master in my quest to beat the Lasers.

Once you have the jib trimmed correctly, you can start steering the boat, using the telltales as guides. If the outside telltale "piddles," this means the sail is overtrimmed for the direction of the wind on the boat. You don't want to let the sail out, so you must head up. This, in effect, retrims the sails, except instead of bringing the sails in, you "brought the whole boat in."

If the inside telltale piddles constantly, or if the sail luffs (actual luffing, or just an inversion at the front edge of the sail), the jib is undertrimmed. You don't want to crank in more on the sheet, so you must retrim by bearing off.

Your goal is to make the outside tale flow straight back and the inside tale "lift" occasionally, meaning some air is getting to it, but not all the time. If you don't know how often the inside tale should be lifting, err on the side of too often. It's better to have too much air flowing along the inside edge of the sail, than not enough.

So Lasers, with this and the Roll Tack, you had better watch out.

The next intreguing issue about the sails is to understand what the telltales on the leech-edge of the mainsail are meant to do...